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Hi have a door store sofa that I have had for years. It has held up and the design is pretty classic. the best part is the sleeper mattress. all of our guests rave about it. it it super comfortable and the sleeper mechanism has held up, no metal bar in your back or anything of the sort!

The difference may be due to grade of leather, and the number of pieces of hides used to upholster the chair.

Better leather is generally aniline dyed, I believe, meaning more pigment extends deeper into the hide.

Larger pieces of hide are more expensive but yield a chair with fewer seams, giving a cleaner look and fewer stress points.

Other questions to ask would be the composition of the cushions, and the method of creating the underpinnings.. some are 8-way tied, some sinuous spring (i think that's the name). 8-way tied used to be the standard, but respectable manufacturers like Mitchell Gold stand behind sinuous spring construction.

It's still a healthy price to pay for a chiar, so I agree with MGR.. if you like and can afford it, go for it.

If the price were lower, I'd be more suspect.

They have some club chairs in a few Art Deco inspired designs, named things like Cougar, Jaguar and Bobcat, or something like that.

I love the pair that I have; a friend of mine loves the pair he has of one of the other designs in that series, and a friend of a friend seems very happy with his pair of yet a third design in that series.

I think I got mine when they were at some even lower introductory price, and I marveled that that could be correct for leather, but they're great, and I love the compact size of mine.

I had a door store sofa years ago, and it held up very well. The thing about door store is they stock may pieces that other stores charge more for (e.g. Bo Concepts). Which just goes to show you how merchandising can affect perceived value.

I just bought a leather sleeper and armchair in their sale that ended Sept. 10th, and am very happy with them. The Valencia sleeper was $1,299 and the matching chair was $699. Great pieces, seems like a lot of money to me, but much less than comparable stuff elsewhere.

I think the attitude "if you don't spend $5,000 on a couch it cant be any good" is a bit overwraught, personally.

BTW, they almost always have a "two club chairs for $1,000" sale going on.

I'm very pleased with my Door Store "Philly" chair. Comfortable, well-made, and as good or better looking as higher-priced chairs I've seen at other stores. Sure, if you have a few grand to toss around you will find a higher quality chair. But for the money, I think the Door Store chairs are hard to beat on almost all fronts.

I was having a similiar issue with the Door Store's Stylus twin sleeper--at $799 (on sale), it's way cheaper than those at comparable stores. Has anyone had this particular sleeper?

Almost all of my furniture (book cases, bed, desk, dresser) is from the Door Store and I cannot say enough about their quality and service, not to mention their prices. I am a snob-and-a-half when it comes to design, but I don't have the wallet to match--I found their stuff to be a wonderful compromise.

I did the two chairs (Tiger model) for $1000 over a year ago (maybe two years ago, I forget). I bought them after wanting leather club chairs for a very long time, but not quite convincing myself that they were worth $1300+ each. But along the way, I looked in almost every store in the city that stocks club chairs (many, many stores).

While the Door Store chairs were marginally - very slightly - worse looking in quality to my untrained eye, the price more than made up for it. Specifically, the leather wasn't _quite_ as soft as other places, and the stitching on the seems, while excusable as stylish, was a little cruder. But again, I want to stress that they were only slightly worse than the typical $1300-1400 club chair that everyone seems to sell. Hardly noticeable to someone like me who has seen them all (but not knowing much about their construction).

And since buying, they still look new. I have no complaints at all about how well they've held up. Maybe it's that tougher leather.

My only complaint is about the base of the chair. The four corner pieces are each only held on by one screw. As a result, if you slide the chairs around on rug, like I do, they tend to spin around if the screw isn't tightened. You only need to kick it straight with your foot, but it is a bit of a hassle.

You can take off the corner pieces, but I felt that they sat a little low without them.

Otherwise, I recommend them highly.

Get a better more classic-retro-deco 20s Parisian design WITH an ottoman at JCPenney.com for $399

http://www3.jcpenney.com/jcp/ProductsHOM.aspx?DeptID=25438&CatID=28273&CatTyp=DEP&ItemTyp=G&GrpTyp=PRD&ItemID=0d17237&ProdSeq=1&Cat=chairs&Dep=Home+Furnishings&PCat=Sofas+%26+Chairs&PCatID=26010&RefPage=ProductList&Sale=&ProdCount=20&RecPtr=&ShowMenu=&TTYP=&ShopBy=0&RefPageName=WindowSolutionHOM%252Easpx&RefCatID=26010&RefDeptID=25438

ps, would love to see a definitive break down of all club chairs like your sofa review.

The JC Penney chairs linked to above are not all leather. I'm just saying.

when I was in college we had clubs chairs in
one of the grad lounges. made of Ox hide and worn to a gorgeous shine,from all of the butts sliding in and out all of those years. If you were close friends ,two could fit in one chair. I would curl up in one that faced away from the windows to sleep,un-disturbed,through some of my less faverite classes. They were very heavy to move
around,and made one feel safe and secure in the deep seat-well.
the chairs were more than fifty years old ,when I attended the school. I kind of hope they are still there ,now. Solid construction and old world craftsmanship were required for all of us
rowdy grad students. The one you mention sounds more than adequate for normal use.

Hi All,
I just dug this up from some copywriting I did years ago. I interviewed...like 15 high end manufacturers and decorators and put together a "how to buy good upholstery" primer. This is a long-ass post but I learned a lot by writing it. The perfect example is the chair above. The only obvious goof is that the sides are pieced together (best quality would be all one skin). Before you buy it, you might want to ask some more Maxwell type questions armed with the info below. Also on my blog:http://seeingdesign.blogspot.com/


UPHOLSTERY PRIMER -
Everything You Need to Know About Buying Upholstery

The most important indicators of value are the raw components and the skill with which these components are transformed into new upholstery. This primer teaches you about: components of furniture, processes for materials and methods of assembly. This knowledge enables you to make decisions about furniture with confidence, and get what you want for your home at the best value.

How To Build Quality

Nothing transforms a house into a home like upholstered furniture. Yet, upholstery is different than other types of furniture because you can’t see the actual parts that make up the frame, springs and cushions. Therefore, it is often tricky for shoppers to know about the quality of the furniture they are buying.

When you shop for cabinetry, the quality is apparent in how the drawers are constructed and how consistently the finish is applied. However, most of the quality issues of upholstered furniture are hidden beneath the textile.….and there’s a lot more to nice upholstery than a great shape and a beautiful fabric.

There are several key words associated with quality, including Eight-Way Hand-Tied Springs and Kiln-Dried Wood. But, what they mean and why they are significant to you require explanation. Once you understand how upholstery is manufactured, you’ll have the tools necessary to make decisions about what is right for you and your home.

FRAMES

The life of a piece of upholstered furniture begins with its frame. Lasting furniture must be constructed of the proper kinds of wood that have been processed with quality in mind. Additionally, the frame needs to be well reinforced using any of several age-old techniques of joining, blocking, fastening and doweling.

Wood

You may never see the wood used to create the frame of your bed, sofa, chair or ottoman. But, you really should know whether a hardwood or softwood was used. Avoid Softwoods because they aren’t sturdy enough to hold the joinery that is required for good quality furniture. The tight graining of Hardwoods allows for pegs, screws and nails to be set securely so they won’t come loose over time. Hardwoods include Oak, Alder and other woods with tight graining. Hardwood laminates are often used for blocks and braces because laminates are actually stronger than solid wood in these applications.

You also want to know that the wood in your furniture has been kiln-dried. Kiln-drying is an extra process in which the wood is heated in an industrial oven to yield several benefits:

- It removes excess sap and moisture, which can cause frames to warp.
- It prevents wood from absorbing any moisture in the future that may cause the frame to swell, shrink or change shape, which can loosen joints and fastenings.
- It minimizes bending, torquing, mildewing and rotting during the life of the piece.

Joints, Blocking and Doweling

The next step in creating great furniture is assembling the wood into a sturdy frame. Generally, the more rigid the frame the better, because a loose frame can crack or fail. Several craftsman processes can be used to create a good, strong frame. A variety of woods and laminates are used for joining, blocking and doweling and sometimes several techniques are used.

Joints are the places where one piece of frame wood intersects to another part of the frame at an angle. Joints must be reinforced with blocks or dowels for extra support or the frame will be susceptible to loosening over time.

Blocking refers to the process of placing additional blocks of wood behind or diagonal to joints and corners for support in areas where the furniture craftsman believes there may be greater stress. Blocks provide lateral support and a larger area for screws and fasteners to set wood elements securely. This extra bracing at stress points contributes to the lasting integrity of the frame. An alternative to blocking is doweling.

Doweling refers to the process whereby one or two dowels are drilled, hammered and glued into the wood at stress-points to provide extra strength and support to the frame. Nails, screws, fasteners and glue may also support many parts of a frame.

Frame Standards

Use kiln-dried Alder or Oak for frames. Both woods are hardwoods from planned-growth American timber farms. They should be milled into at least 4/4” pieces of lumber before drying. For joining and blocking a variety of hardwoods and hardwood laminates are fine. Most joints are blocked, screwed, glued, and fastened for stability. Additional horizontal supports between the arms of each sofa minimize any twisting during moves.

Here’s a tip: Try picking up the end of upholstery. Good furniture should be heavy because quality techniques contribute to furniture weight. Quality materials and processes result in long lasting furniture worthy of passing on for generations.
SPRING SYSTEMS

Once the frame is constructed, a spring system is installed to support the seating area. Good furniture manufacturers will offer two different types of spring support systems: Standard Springs and Eight-Way Hand Tied Springs. When the spring system is finished with a top layer of padding, it is commonly called the “seat deck”.

Standard Springs provide good support at a good price. Most manufacturers offer either Sinuous Springs or Drop-In-Springs as their standard, depending on how they make their furniture. Both types affix to the frame to support the seat deck. Standard springs have a formal, very firm “sit” and only move in the up/down direction. Compare that motion to eight-Way Hand-Tied Springs, which move in many more directions.

Sinuous Springs are heavy-gauge steel springs that have been heat formed into continuous “S” shapes. They are cut into lengths and affixed to the frame. Drop-In Springs are mass-manufactured welded units that are not appropriate for good furniture. Avoid them.

Eight-Way Hand-Tied Springs have a wide range of movement providing a very even and individual sit because they move up and down and side to side. This craftsman process individually ties heavy gauge coils front to back, side to side and diagonally (eight ways) to provide the highest level of quality, comfort and durability. This process costs more because it is time consuming and can only be done by hand.


CUSHIONS, PILLOWS, PADDING and FILLS

Once a piece of upholstered furniture has its frame and springs, the next components are the cushions and padding. Seat Cushions sit on top of the spring system and seat deck. Back Pillows, if present, rest against the back and arms of the piece. Whether you’re looking for overstuffed, sink-into comfort or a more formal sit, pay special attention to this section.

Most good cushions are made of a high-density Dacron® foam core that is then wrapped with either soft polyester, feather and down, or a hypoallergenic down substitute. Dacron adds resilience so that pillows and seats keep their shape, while the wraps form a soft envelope. Cushions and pillows should be sewn into cotton cases to ensure smooth upholstering.


Feather and Down offers the maximum comfort and softness in cushions and pillows that most people desire and designers prefer. Feather and Down back pillows and wrapped seat cushions can always be “fluffed-up” to maintain an attractive look. Feather and Down fills and wraps require a little more maintenance than polyester and high density-foam but they have greater comfort, durability and resilience.
Padding helps any piece of furniture to feel substantial and comfortable. The textile should be applied over soft, ample padding of high-density foam and/or polyester to create a tight, tailored line where it wraps around the frame. Beware of lumpy upholstering and places where you can feel the frame wood through the textile; they are signs of inferior work.

Fabrics and Leathers

Textiles, a term used in the furniture industry, encompass both Fabrics and Leathers. Textiles can account for up to 70% of furniture price, but more expensive does not necessarily mean better or better wearing. So, you should carefully consider how you will use each piece of furniture and which textile is best. Determining these answers goes a long way towards your satisfaction.

Fabrics Tightly woven fabrics and blends tend to wear longer than light or loose-weave natural fibers. To keep your upholstery looking new, vacuum it frequently and have it professionally treated for stain resistance.

Leather is a beautiful, durable and easy-care natural material that gets softer and better with time. To create beautiful leather, top-grain hides are tanned, processed and dyed to give a certain color or look. Tanning refers to the process in which salts are used to cure the hide and to stabilize its shape. Dying refers to infusing the hide with different color dyes.

Aniline dying is a 1st quality process that imparts color but doesn’t disguise the beautiful, natural character of the hide. Some leathers are further treated with a pattern, texture, or polish.

Because leather is a natural product, there may be some normal variation between hides. Leather is a very sturdy material, but it too will need frequent vacuuming and cleaning to preserve its finish and beauty.


SIZING and MEASUREMENTS

Determining the appropriate size for your furniture is very important. There are a number of factors you should consider when making these custom decisions.

- How you sit and feel in a piece of furniture will determine your overall comfort. Get out a tape measure and test different sizes of furniture before ordering.
- Measure the door openings and hallways leading to your room before you order.
- Preview the delivery path from your entry door to where the furniture will be placed. Beware of sharp turns, narrow openings, elevators, stairways or any barriers.
- To ensure good traffic flow within a room, as a general rule, allow approximately three feet of clearance on each side of your furniture for circulation and end tables.


CARE and PROTECTION
Keep Your Furniture Looking New

Your new upholstery will stay looking great if you follow general care instructions.

Vacuum upholstery and slipcovers at least twice a month. Furniture in high-traffic areas such as family rooms will require more frequent care. Normal use of furniture leaves dust and dirt on the textile surface. Left unattended, this everyday dirt will make your furniture difficult or impossible to clean. Regular maintenance and cleaning keeps this everyday dirt from setting, which prolongs the life and new appearance of your fabric.

Sun and Heat. To keep your upholstery looking its best, avoid placing it in direct sunlight or near a heat source like radiators or vents. Sun and heat fade fabric colors and deteriorate textile fibers. Darker colors and finer weaves are particularly susceptible to the effects of sun and heat. If upholstered furniture must sit in direct sunlight or near a heat vent we recommend you select heavyweight neutral cottons or blends to minimize deterioration.

Spots, Spills and Stains. The dye found in a colored cloth or towel can bleed onto your textile during the cleaning process. Keep a clean white cotton cloth or towel handy for spills. Immediately blot spills with the dry towel. Don’t rub spills, as this tends to spread the stain and weaken the textile. Have all stains professionally cleaned immediately. If you allow time to pass before having a stain cleaned, the stain may set permanently.

Fabric Stain Protection. Most textiles are lightly treated with stain protection at the mill to provide some protection against stains. However, fabric guards that offer effective stain protection need to be reapplied frequently. If you want maximum stain protection for slipcovers you’ll need to apply fabric guard after every washing.

Washable Slipcover Care. If you have children or pets, slipcovers are a great option. When slipcovers need cleaning you can simply run them through the washer. If your slipcover has not been pre-washed, washing may change the appearance and fit significantly. So, you’ll want to dry-clean a slipcover that has not been pre-washed. Here are a few rules to keep your slipcover looking its best.

- Do not wash portions of your Slipcover at different times. If you wash the pillows more often than the body, the pillows may fade at a different rate.
- Slipcovers on larger pieces like sofas and daybeds can be too large for regular home washing machines, and you’ll need to use a commercial, triple load washer with cold water and mild detergent.
- Do not line dry slipcovers. Most slipcovers are so heavy when wet that line drying can stretch and weaken seams altering the shape.
- Dry slipcovers in a commercial, triple load dryer on a low setting. Constantly check the slipcovers to make sure they are drying evenly. When they are just slightly damp, reinstall them to minimize wrinkling.

Leather is a durable, natural material that will improve with age. But, leather can stain and requires some care. Blot spills immediately with a dry, white cloth and remove as much of the moisture as you can. If the stain doesn’t lift out, have the leather professionally cleaned immediately. Nubuck leathers can be treated and cared for with a suede brush, available from most shoe-repair shops.

Avoid supermarket cleaning agents or solvents. Some of these products can permanently set stains making them impossible to clean.

©2005, Scott Frankum,
Creative Director of Eboniste.com

A_B,

Drive a second screw into each leg to keep them from spinning around.

does anyone have any experience with clubfurniture.com? cheezy website, but the prices seem decent for top grain, aniline dyed furniture.

http://www.clubfurniture.com

6 years ago I bought a Leathercraft tufted highback club chair. It was expensive for me at the time ($1400 or so) but it has aged wonderfully and appears to be one of the few things I own of heirloom quality. The difference between that and the other leather furniture I own is mostly in the quality of the leather and the sturdiness of the frame.

Having information in diffent furniture shop. Give you more convince and easy to find out what is really good furniture. To have if your buying furnitures for your new build house.

The reason the chairs are so inexpensive is because they are of very poor quality. I worked at the Door Store for years and the problems with these chairs as well as most of their furniture is that it just is not made well. You might as well go to Ikea our furniture is no better the only difference is that we will assemble our pieces. You'd be surprised how many of these chairs have to be repaired or replaced during the one year warrenty period. Bottom line they're junk!!

As a general guide line for upholstered seating, I would suggest comparing the weight of similar size pieces. The heavier the frame the more likely the better the construction of the internal frame. With some sofas, you can lift one end and the middle of the frame will actually bend -- watch out. Many consumer buy on the "look only" --- the people in the industry know this and often cut corners on what the client doesn't see underneath the upholstery.

P.S. Another good think to do is knock on the outside of the sides and see if you hear a "thud" or an "echo"... some companies actually attach cardboard to the internal wood frame.. this will be obvious when you hear the hollow echo sound.

Dear Sir:
So lucky got your contact info. Nice to know you here!
Wuyang doors company is located in Yongkang city. Zhejiang pro. China. It ‘s a manufacture special produce stainless steel doors, steel-wooden armored doors, wooden doors, Security steel doors etc.
We are mainly selling to Russia, Ukraine, Malaysia and Arabia country and area. Otherwise we are starting cooperate with some US and Europe company make the high-quality products range.
If you have this business. Please contact with me ASAP! I will give you good price for good quality and best after-sale service! Look forward to receive your reply soon!
Regards!
MS.Sino
Wuyang doors company
TEL：086-579-7153858 FAX：0086-579-7158873
MB：0086-13175511222 MSN：anolcn@hotmail.com
ICQ:284035660 Skype: nonoincn
Http://www.wuyangco.com Email: anolcn@yahoo.com.cn